Coal-Fired Pizza Showdown (Coal Vines vs. Grimaldi’s) March 19, 2008

The DFW area is fortunate enough to be home to 3 out of the 25 coal oven pizzerias outside of Manhattan according to sliceny.com.  These include the two Coal Vines locations (Dallas and Southlake) and the recently opened Grimaldi’s in the West Village.  Why is this important?  To pizza purists, the combination of the high temperature of a coal oven and the unique charcoal flavor it imparts on the pizza is a necessity to create true New York style pizza with its crispy crust and doughy interior.  So who in Dallas makes it better?

The local chain (is it a chain since it has two locations?) Coal Vines was founded by a former NYC police officer, Joseph Palladino.  The coal oven is actually a hybrid oven that gets its heat from three different sources.  The Dallas location, with its dramatic floor to ceiling wine shelf on the backwall, was buzzing during this weekday lunch.  The somewhat dim indoor dining area feels like an intimate upscale pizzeria/wine bar while the patio provides a brighter, sunnier space.  My dining companion and I split a large white special ($17).

Ok let’s talk crust.  The pizza’s thin crust was slightly overcooked on this occasion, leaving large charred areas around the edge of the pizza.  Additionally, it seemed that either the heat in the oven was uneven or the pizza crust wasn’t of uniform thickness, as one side of the crust had bubbled up while the other side remained flat.  The crust on the “bubbled up” side was too overcooked to be able to pull off the “fold your pizza slice in half” trick, cracking down the middle with my attempt. 

Tomatoes on the pizza were fresh and juicy.  However, there was far too much ricotta compared to the other cheeses on the pizza, leaving an unpleasantly sweet and almost powdery mouthfeel.  The pizza felt like it actually needed more grease, something that I, a frequent dabber of pizza grease with my napkins, never thought I would say. 

A few weeks later, I visited the recently opened Grimaldi’s for a Saturday lunch.  The chain’s history dates back to an East Harlem pizzeria in 1931.  Rumor has it that Grimaldi’s actually imports tap water from NYC to get the pizza dough to the “right” consistency.  Grimaldi’s, with its red checkerboard tablecloths, has a decidedly more casual and less scene-y feel than Coal Vines.  Abundant windows light up the dining space, which has an open view of the rather majestic brick coal oven.  For the sake of comparison to Coal Vines, I wanted to try a simple white pie.  However, on this occasion, my two dining companions were hungry boys and they demanded meat.  So we ordered something a bit untraditional, a large white with meatballs and sundried tomatoes ($23, large white pizza without extra toppings is $17, comparable to Coal Vines prices).  I was hesitant about adding meatballs to a white pizza, but the waitress insisted that Grimaldi’s meatballs are a must for any pizza.

The crust on this pizza was dead on.  Slightly charred (evenly around the pizza), crispy bottom, doughy middle.  No problem folding the slice in half this time. 

I was afraid that the white pizza would be too dry to hold up to the sundried tomato and meatball toppings (something I’d normally order on a red pizza).  But I was wrong, the oozy hot cheese gave the pizza the moisture it needed.  I suspect that Grimaldi’s well seasoned meatball slices would’ve even better on a red sauce pizza, and I can’t wait to come back to investigate that hunch.

The winner?  Hands down Grimaldi’s.  Chalk it up to the imported tap water at Grimaldi’s or accidental slight overcooking at Coal Vines, but the crust at Grimaldi’s, as compared on these two visits, was just much better.  Don’t get me wrong, I didn’t hate Coal Vines.  I thought the pizza was fine when judged against the general quality of pizza in Dallas, but paled in comparison to Grimaldi’s.

Rating: 3 / 5
Coal Vines
2404 Cedar Springs Rd
Dallas, TX 75201

Rating: 4 / 5
Grimaldi’s Coal Brick Oven Pizzeria
3636 McKinney Ave
Dallas, TX 75201

Best Stew Ever? (Chickpea and Sausage Stew) March 13, 2008

This is the best bowl of soup/stew I’ve had in a while (and unfortunately one of the worst photos I’ve taken in a while).  Something about the subtle sweetness of the Italian sausage highlights the savory profile of the stew so well.

12 oz Italian sausage, casing removed
1 large sweet onion, finely chopped
2-15 oz cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
10 oz package frozen spinach, thawed
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp tomato paste
2 cups vegetable broth
1/2 cup flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
1/4 cup cilantro, roughly chopped
salt and pepper

Heat olive oil in a dutch oven (or large sauce pan) over medium heat.  Add in onions and cook until soft, about 4-5 minutes.  Add in Italian sausage and brown, crumbling the sausage with a wooden spoon (about 8-10 minutes).  Add in tomato paste, parsley, and cilantro, and cook 2-3 minutes.  Add in vegetable broth and chickpeas and bring stew to a boil.  Add in spinach and a pinch of salt and pepper.  Simmer covered for 10 minutes. 

Serve with crusty bread.

Serves 4

Frozen Lasagnas From Dallas Based Veroli Foods March 9, 2008

Dallas Based Veroli foods, founded by first generation Canadian-Italian Lidia Caschera, has added new frozen entrees to its line of products. 

Veroli products are entirely natural and contain no artificial flavors, colors, preservatives, hydrogenated oils, or added sugars.  Foodies will be glad to know that these lasagnas are prepared in a way consistent with the tastes of the Lazio region of Italy (where Lidia’s family is from), and thus are lighter fare than your typical grocery store frozen lasagna (no excessive cheese or large chunks of ground beef).  Veroli manages to achieve a truly al dente pasta in these frozen lasagnas, unlike the popular major competitors whose pasta is often gummy.

Following the directions on the box, I had a slight issue with the wateriness of the sauce making the lasagna too runny on my first try with lasagna with meat sauce.  Leaving it in the oven 5 or 10 more minutes longer than the box prescribed time helped that issue when I tried the three cheese lasagna.

The two types of lasagnas, meat sauce and three cheese, are available at local Central Market locations (soon to be at Whole Foods).

Frisco, Ya Ain’t Irish Enough (Lochrann’s Irish Pub & Eatery) March 8, 2008

Bringing an authentic pub atmosphere to a white-bread suburb is tough, but that didn’t stop Dave McNabb from trying.  Heck, 75% of Lochrann’s interior was created by Irish craftsmen.  Ignoring the master planned feel of Frisco Square and the valet parking situation, Lochrann’s impressive exterior with a prime location directly across from a soccer stadium seems almost too perfect to be true.

Unfortunately, it is.  Suburbanites filled the pub in masses this Friday evening, and the large waiting crowd in the lobby completely obscured the view of the hostess.  Looks like the standard “eye the table like a hawk and swoop in as soon as the occupants get up” pub seating strategy is too uncivilized for Frisco, Lochrann’s employs an Applebee’s-like seating approach to better suit its patrons. 

Lucky for us, the majority of the group we were meeting had already arrived and been seated.  I plopped myself down on a comfortable booth and was immediately overwhelmed by the noise level.  Close your eyes and the chattering crowd drowning out the live acoustic music felt almost like sitting in a busy pub across the pond.  But it’s much louder than your neighborhood pub, launching into a decibel zone that is uncomfortable to sustain over an entire meal.  Open your eyes and that pub feel further disintegrated.  The wood work was dandy, but neither of the two flat screens above the main bar were visible from the entire dining section we were seated in.  The crowd, though roaring with chatter, were calmly seated at their individual tables, with quite a few babies and toddlers in tow.  The only people moving about in the dining area were waiters in white button downs and waitresses in plaid mini skirts.  No soccer games on TV, no groups of rowdy youngsters, and no beer list.

No beer list!  Though our waiter was able to spout off Lochrann’s malt offerings (which seemed way too few for a pub), his efforts were futile as almost no one could hear what he was saying in that sea of noise.  The only cider on the list was Strongbow at $6 for a pint.

The group grew grouchy, the noise wearing away their initial excitement.  Thank goodness the appetizers arrived soon to appease the increasing uneasiness.  We sampled the Galway Bay Calamari ($8.95) and the curious fusion creation Boxty Quesadilla ($8.95).

The light, golden, crisp calamari rings are above average quality for pub fare.  However, the boxty quesadilla (not photographed) turned out to be the highlight of the evening.  Warm gooey cheese held together two soft and substantial potato pancakes filled with onion, tomato, and bacon.  There’s nothing particularly Irish or Tex-Mex about this dish, but the unique plate is just the right kind of rich hearty fare fitting to accompany a mug of brew.

Entrees didn’t fare as well. 

Fish and chips ($11.95) turned out an overpriced plate of thick, slightly slimey cod squares coated in soggy, too peppery batter.  There was no crispness in the fish or the chips, both were limp and disappointing.  Chips had no hint of any seasoning and required a generous dose of malt vinegar to make them even tolerable. 

Chicken and bacon boxty potato pancakes ($9.95) lacked the oozy cheesy fun of the boxty quesadilla.  Dry chicken cubes bore an uncanny resemblance to the texture of canned chicken (yes, we’re talking Chicken of the Sea texture) and cream sauce was too bland to do anything for the potato pancakes. 

Across the table, a diner leaves a plate of oven roasted crackling Irish chicken ($12.95) alone after the first couple of bites.  “Too dry, even with the whiskey sauce,” she complained.  Classic Irish stew ($11.95) and Kobe beef shepherd’s pie ($11.95) turned out better reactions, though I have to wonder why Lochrann’s insists on making shepherd’s pie with ground Kobe beef instead of the traditional lamb. 

At the end of the meal, the waiter came around to ask if we’d like to try Bailey’s Cream cheesecake or chocolate whiskey cake for dessert, but no one in the group wanted to stay in that sea of noise for a minute longer. 

As much as I love the concept of a great little pub right across the street from the soccer stadium, I found little at Lochrann’s to love.  Somewhere between the mini skirt donning waitresses and the menu’s practice of sticking the label “Irish” or “whiskey” or other Irish-sounding word/phrase in front of blatantly non-Irish dishes, Lochrann’s loses its appeal as a pub and gains a Hooter’s-esque feel with the kind of ”authenticity” found at of Outback Steakhouse.  Sorry, that is far from enough reason to make the trek up to Frisco worthwhile.

Rating: 2 / 5

Lochrann’s Irish Pub & Eatery
6195 Main Street
Frisco, TX 75034

Strip Steak Sandwiches with Balsamic Onions and Blue Cheese March 6, 2008

Balsamic vinegar and blue cheese in one sandwich, what’s not to like?

1 lb strip steak
1 tbsp Worchestershire’s sauce
2 Roma tomatoes
1 medium red onion
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
4 oz crumbled blue cheese
4 kaiser rolls (or French bread, or any kind of crusty bread)
salt and pepper

Combine strip steak and Worchestershire’s sauce in a large ziplock bag.  Seal and shake, until strip steak is coated in Worchestershire’s sauce.  Let marinate in refrigerator for at least 15 minutes. 

Preheat broiler.

Meanwhile, cut red onion into thin slices.  Combine sliced onion with balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and a pinch of salt and pepper in a medium bowl.  Toss to coat onion with vinegar and oil.

Slice Roma tomatoes.  Set aside.

Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.  Place strip steak on one side of the baking sheet, sprinkling a pinch of salt and pepper on either side.  Place balsamic covered onion strips on the other side of the baking sheet.  Broil steak and vegetables until desired doneness (about 6 minutes per side for medium doneness).

Remove steak from baking sheet to cutting board to slice into “fajita” strips.  Top each bottom half of the kaiser roll with steak strips, balsamic roasted onions, a couple of slices of Roma tomato, and a sprinkle of crumbled blue cheese. 

Makes 4 sandwiches