1. Your overall favorite food destination (city/region).

2. Favorite city/region for high end dining.

3. Favorite city/region for casual/low end dining.

4. A place that doesn’t get much food press but pleasantly surprised you.

5. Favorite place for an outside the restaurant food experience (cooking school? food festival? milking cows on dairy farms? deep sea fishing?)

Here it is straight from the pitmaster’s mouth (or keyboard?):

Just wanted to send out a note to let you know this Saturday, March 12th, will be our first day at our new location.
900 E. 11th Street. Our phone number will stay the same. 512-653-1187
We will be open 7 days a week, and for now we will just be open for lunch.
We will have Texas beers on draft, and you can even take growlers of beer to-go.
We will have outdoor picnic tables, indoor seating and plenty of parking.

Franklin BBQ
911 E 11th St
Austin, TX 78702

(Google Map)

Getting Started: www.capmetro.org

From your starting point, plan your trip to Kramer Station with CapMetro’s Trip Planner or Google Maps’ Transit Directions.  A MetroRail regional pass (valid all day) is just $5.50, guaranteed to be more cost effective than those pesky rising gas prices.

First Stop: Kramer Station

Circle Brewing Company officially opens its doors to the public on March 12.  The Grand Opening party goes on from 2:00pm to 6:00pm and offers visitors 3 free samples or, with the purchase of a $10 pint glass, full size samples in your shiny new glassware.  They’ve also promised BBQ (and other Austin trailer food vendors?) to satiate your stomach during the sampling.

Second Stop: Crestview Station

Hop on the MetroRail Red Line one stop south to Crestview Station, where community owned BlackStar Co-op is offering $1 off any pint of their house brews when you show your MetroRail ticket for the entire month of March.  BlackStar just tapped their House Brown 660 in promotion of Texas House Bill 660, a piece of legislation which, if passed, would allow brewpubs like BlackStar to sell their brews off-premises (e.g. your local grocery store or restaurant).  Politics aside, BlackStar has one of the most laid back, wide open patios around town to enjoy your brews and a menu full of tasty options like the crispy and creamy pan-fried grit cakes with serrano and garlic sauteed shrimp, the perfectly dressed beet and arugula salad with candied pecans and blue cheese, the intensely flavored bowl of red chili, the light and crispy battered redfish and chips, and the sinfully rich and comforting chicken pot pie (made upon order, takes a little longer but worth every minute).  Don’t forget the bacon toffee for dessert (or as a great beer companion snack).

Third Stop: Plaza Saltillo Station

It’s getting later into the night, and Plaza Saltillo Station (two stops south of Crestview Station) just happens to be located in the middle of some of east Austin’s best dive bars and pubs.  A five minute walk down E 6th from Plaza Saltillo Station lands you at The Liberty (1618 1/2 E 6th), where the beer is cheap and cold and the massive back courtyard is filled with picnic tables and an outdoor bocce court.  A half block further east on E 6th just past Chalmers Avenue is The Grackle (1700 E 6th), a newcomer to the strip that offers an expansive front covered porch and a great selection of brews (think Brooklyn, Unibroue, Stone Brewing, etc) with prices guaranteed to be more palatable than those on the other side of I-35.  But the beer and the East Austin vibe aren’t the only reasons to visit Liberty Bar and The Grackle, nouveau Asian food trailer East Side King runs operations late into the night at both these bars and offers the best post-boozing bites in Austin (in the back courtyard at The Liberty and in the parking lot at The Grackle).  Perhaps you’ve heard of David Chang’s Momofuku pork buns in NYC? Well, I’ve eaten these sublimely rich buns at both Momofuku Ssam and East Side King, and I confess to prefer the Austin trailer version.  East Side King takes an acute stab at “elevated low brow food” trend with its Ramen noodles with pork belly, poached egg, shiitake mushroom, green onion, and kimchi served in the instant noodle bowl.  It’s a delicious concept that will have you licking the bowl clean and laughing at the irony at the same time.  While you’re indulging in everything pork belly, don’t forget the tasty sides of fried Brussels sprout salad and beet home fries.

And Beyond: Downtown Station

One stop south of Plaza Saltillo Station is Red Line’s Downtown Station.  Perhaps you’ve heard of a little event known as SXSW?  The Downtown Station is in the middle of all the SXSW opening night action, and it’s easy to catch a cab back from downtown if you stay out past the MetroRail’s last scheduled train of the night (11:30pm).

A golden crusted, semi-firm, semi-flaky piece of Pacific Rockfish atop lightly sautéed mixture of cannellini beans, kale, diced parsnips, turnips, carrots, celery, and onion seasoned simply with salt, pepper, a touch of paprika, and a drizzle of lemon juice based off of a recipe from the December 2010 issue of Shape magazine.

For me, any chance to mix seasonal veggies is a winning combination.  The intricately sweet, earthy, and slightly bitter flavors of the root vegetables and leafy greens in this dish and along with its nutritional density definitely won me over.

A spread of winter vegetables:

Recipe yields 4 servings

2 1/2 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 carrot, peeled and diced
1 stalk of celery, diced
1 medium turnip, peeled and diced
2 parnips, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp paprika, more for sprinkling (optional)
1 bay leaf
15 oz can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
1 bunch kale, center ribs removed and roughly chopped into bite sized pieces
1 lb Pacific Rockfish, skinned, rinsed, patted dry, and divided into four 4 oz fillets (You can use any larger, semi flaky white fish.  The original recipe called for cod, which Whole Foods was out of on the Sunday evening I went shopping.  Note to self: stop grocery shopping on Sunday evenings)
lemon wedge for lemon juice
salt and pepper

• Note: the two parts of the dish, the fish and the veggies, cook somewhat simultaneously.  Start with the veggies (which take a touch longer), but start on the fish during the last part of the veggie preparation when you’re just heating ingredients through.
• Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large, deep saute pan over medium-high heat.  Add onion, carrots, turnip, parsnip, and garlic.  Fry for about 5 minutes or until edges of veggies are turning golden brown, stirring frequently.
• Add paprika and bay leaf, cannellini beans, and 1/2 tbsp more olive oil and fry for 4-5 more minutes or until just heated through, stirring frequently.
• Stir in kale leaves and cook until leaves are wilted but not soggy, 3-4 more minutes.
• In the mean time, season fish fillets with salt and pepper on both sides.  Heat remaining 1 tbsp of olive oil in a large nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat.  Lay fish fillets gently in pan and cook 3 to 4 minutes each side, or until golden crust forms.
• Divide vegetable-bean mixture among 4 plates, top with fish fillet.  Sprinkle fish with a touch of paprika (optional) and a few drizzles of lemon juice.

The better half’s verdict?  He was happy to be home because “the food is better here.”  Well, with the exception of a few delicacies.

Nutrition Facts
Per serving
as calculated by Sparkpeople Recipe Calculator

Calories 403 | Fat 12g | Cholesterol 50mg | Sodium 1080mg
Carbohydrate 40g | Dietary Fiber 10g | Sugars 7g | Protein 36g

Vitamin A 324% | Vitamin B-12 23% | Vitamin B-6 32% | Vitamin C 104%
Vitamin E 21% | Calcium 17% | Iron 21%

Jia Jia exterior (Liyuan Lu location):

Jia Jia employees making XLB:

Pork soup dumplings in their steamer:

Hello soup!  Note that authentic XLB doesn’t employ soy sauce for seasoning the filling (soup is almost clear, not brown).

That last photo is food porn at its best for a soup dumpling enthusiast like me.

Jia Jia Tang Bao
62 Liyuan Lu near Nanchezhan Lu
(丽园路62号，靠近南车站路)
Shanghai, China
(Google Map)

Jia Jia also has a more popular location near People’s Square at 90 Huanghe Lu near Fengyang Lu.

Recipe yields one 14″ pizza (4 servings)

1 ball pizza dough
1/2 tbsp olive oil
4 oz Quadrello di Bufala or Taleggio cheese, rind removed and sliced into 1/8 inch thick pieces
1 Bosc pear, peeled and sliced
3 oz pancetta
a handful of arugula or spinach leaves
black pepper

• Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
• Roll out thawed pizza dough into preferred shape.  Brush top with 1/2 tbsp olive oil.
• Top crust with cheese slices, pear slices, and pancetta.

• Bake pizza for 12-15 minutes, or until cheese is bubbly, pancetta is crisp, and edges of pizza crust are golden brown.

• Top with arugula or spinach leaves, sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper to taste.

The pancetta bursted with flavor on top of the juicy sweet pear slices while the milky, rustic Quadrello di Bufala held it all together.  Sweet, savory, and simple, I love a pizza for a weeknight dinner.

Nutrition Facts
Per serving (1/4 of pizza)
as calculated by Sparkpeople Recipe Calculator

Calories 316 | Fat 14g | Sodium 669 mg
Carbohydrate 35g | Dietary Fiber 4g | Sugars 3g | Protein 16g

Vitamin A 56% | Vitamin C 17% | Vitamin E 5%
Calcium 6% | Iron 14%

Local, sustainable ingredients served out of trailer, this BYOB concept by Bryce Gilmore is an environmental and price conscious foodie’s dream.  Carefully thought out and executed small plates worthy of a five star chef’s tasting menu are served in a pretense-free environment at around the $5 mark.  Combine the farm-to-trailer food focus with the casual atmosphere of college students, young families, and retired couples sharing communal picnic tables in a parking lot, an al fresco meal at Odd Duck is the quintessential Austin experience.

On a recent visit, we sampled grilled local zucchini and eggplant topped with feta ($4),

a rich bowl of soft boiled duck egg over grits with butternut squash and mushrooms ($5),

juicy grilled quail and crunchy apple strips over rice ($6),

and the stacked tall pork belly slider with sweet potato slaw ($6).

We munched down on our tasty small plates as we exchanged conversation and wine with a retired neurobiology professor to our left.  For dessert, we were offered bites of Gourdough’s blue balls (blueberry filled donut holes) from the elementary school aged daughter of a young family to our right.  Sandwiched between experienced fine diners and a foodie-in-training,  I shivered a little in  my jeans and t-shirt as the cool evening breeze blew on this slow paced Austin evening.  This $25 meal goes beyond the exquisite taste of food, it’s about that laid-back atmosphere, the openness of the community, and a shared passion for good, sustainable food.

Odd Duck Farm to Trailer
1219 S Lamar Blvd
Austin, TX 78704

(Google Map)

Tuscan kale, also known as Lacinto kale, is high in beta-carotene, vitamin A, vitamin C, and phytonutrients.  It’s been called a miracle food.  I enjoy its clean and slightly sweet flavor, particularly when contrasted with a bit of acid.

Recipe yields 4 servings

1 bunch Tuscan kale, rinsed, patted dry, stems removed, and roughly chopped into 2-inch pieces/strips
1 medium shallot, sliced
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp olive oil
2 oz fresh, crumbled goat cheese (such as chevre or a soft feta)
salt and pepper to taste

• Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.  Add in shallots and saute until soft, 1-2 minutes.
• Add in kale pieces, and saute until soft and wilted, 2-3 minutes.
• Stir in lemon juice, cover, and let cook 1-2 minutes.
• Uncover, season with salt and pepper, and serve with crumbled goat cheese on top.

Nutrition Facts
Per serving
as calculated by Sparkpeople Recipe Calculator

Calories 101 | Fat 7g | Cholesterol 5mg | Sodium 381mg
Carbohydrate 8g | Dietary Fiber 2g | Sugars 1g | Protein 4g

Vitamin A 275% | Vitamin B-6 9% | Vitamin C 71%
Vitamin E 6% | Calcium 9% | Iron 6%

I like BBQ.  That’s probably a bit of an understatement, considering:

• The time I woke up at 4:00am on a Saturday to drive from Dallas to Lexington to try Texas Monthly’s 2008 pick for the best BBQ in the state at Snow’s BBQ (only open on Saturdays and usually sell out before noon)
• The time I squeezed in a late dinner at Kilgore’s Country Tavern for their famous east Texas ribs and got back home to Dallas at 2:00am
• The time I took a trip with other BBQ enthusiasts for the sole purpose of  eating at four different Central Texas BBQ legends in one day and comparing notes

“Like” is definitely an understatement for someone who plans her intra-state driving trips around meals at BBQ joints.  Certainly, I haven’t dedicated my life to Texas BBQ as this guy has, but I’ll say I’ve paid some dues and tasted enough of the “best Texas BBQ” to know what I want in a slice of brisket.

I was a little skeptical when the blogs first started raving about Franklin Barbecue.  Could a young dude with a trailer and his crew out-smoke the legendary Texas BBQ dynasties?  This is Texas after all, and part of the mystical draw of that luring smoke is the history behind the pits.  Then the newspapers jumped on board, then Texas Monthly, and most recently, Food and Wine magazine.

There is truth to the hype, folks.

We’d been told that Franklin Barbecue (only open Wednesdays to Sundays from 11:00am to sellout) gathers quite the crowd on the weekends and that it would be wise to line up early (and this was before the national press in Food and Wine).  So we arrived at Franklin 10 minutes to opening time on a Saturday, only to find this:

We were lucky that we got in line just in time.  About six people queued up behind us before Aaron Franklin rolled out the “Sold Out” sign and closed the gate.  But were we lucky?

By the time we got to the trailer to order, they were out of fatty brisket.  I know, there are plenty of items on the menu (and we got all of them, including the lean brisket), but the essence of Texas BBQ is a slice of fatty brisket, dang it.  But my disappointment at the brisket situation was soon cured by the huge spread of BBQ euphoria before me.

Franklin serves up some tender ribs, so juicy that it’s hard to pick up and eat with bare hands because the meat will fall off the bone as you grab for it.  However, the succulent ribs retain a crusty bark despite its juicy interior.  The smoke flavor is enhanced by the dry rub, and there’s just the slightest hint of sweetness that makes these ribs reminiscent of  the BBQ of the deep south (without the sauce).  Sorry Whole Hog Cafe, I’ve found a favorite new rib.

Continuing on the pork side of the table, the juicy pulled pork also impressed.  The texture of the meat balanced the fine line of being structured but not stringy and moist but not mushy.  I ate the least amount of pulled pork out of all the meats, but only because the fine texture of pulled pork would clearly do better in a sandwich (maybe with some of that vinegar sauce) than by itself.

When I hear the words “lean” and “brisket” together, I have nightmares of slices with the texture of deli roast beef.  But unwrapping the butcher paper at Franklin Barbecue quickly dispelled my fear.  I don’t know how Franklin Barbecue has managed to get lean brisket so moist that with my eyes closed, I wouldn’t even recognize that it’s the lean cut.  The brisket is seasoned well, however, a touch strong on the salt when eaten alone.  With a slice of white bread (or in a brisket sandwich), it is perfection.

The sausage at Franklin Barbecue has an extra dimension of richness in its flavor profile that can be attributed to the addition of organ meat (beef heart, as confirmed by FCG BBQ).  My preference for sausage is one with a coarser filling (like Smitty’s peppery, snappy sausage), but Franklin’s sausage was still a crowd pleaser, enjoyable to the last bite.

On this initial visit, we also tried Franklin Barbecue’s excellent, extra mustardy potato salad.

But it’s not over until the fat brisket sings in my mouth.  About a month later, news spread that Franklin Barbecue had acquired an additional smoker trailer and increased their production.  On a much chillier Saturday, we once again found ourselves lined up at Franklin Barbecue ten minutes before 11:00am, this time a shorter but still substantial line of at least 25 people deep.  A bit of patience standing in the breeze on this brisk morning paid off:

Hello, fatty brisket!  This is going to sound blasphemous, but the fatty brisket was so rich, so intense, so beefy, that I actually couldn’t eat more than two slices.  The unrestrained, gushing meat juices bowled me over.  I reached for white bread not as a habit, but as a necessity.  The intensity is amazing, but enjoy it in moderation.

We also ordered a rib plate to once again sample the piquant potato salad and excellent beans.  The ribs were consistent from the previous visit, juicy, tender, with good bark.

Is Franklin Barbecue the best BBQ in Texas?  That is a tricky question.  I can honestly say that Franklin Barbecue is the only BBQ joint in Texas where each and every one of their meat items belongs in the top 3 in the state.  On an item by item comparison, I prefer Snow’s brisket just a smidgeon over Franklin’s.  On the three visits I’ve been to Snow’s, the brisket has been just as smoky and juicy as Franklin’s, but with restraint on the salt level so the brisket is more enjoyable by itself.  Franklin’s ribs rival that of Smitty’s (when Smitty’s is having a good day), and while I’ve had significant inconsistency at Smitty’s on my three visits, Franklin Barbecue, thus far, has delivered a consistently rave-worthy product.  Smitty’s sausage is still my favorite in the state, again,due to a personal preference for the texture.  But the problem with the other BBQ joints is that while they may excel in some meats, they can be mediocre in others.  At Franklin Barbecue, they should be proud of every single item they are dishing out, because everything is that good.  If it’s not perfection, it’s pretty damn close.

Just remember to get there early.

Franklin Barbecue
3421 N. I-35
Austin, TX 78722

(Google Map)

Italian cuisine maven Lidia Bastianich’s recipe for skillet turnips and potatoes with bacon in the October 2010 issue of Bon Appetit caught my eye as the perfect chance to break in my new, bigger than ever, so heavy that it’s a gym workout, and much loved Lodge cast iron skillet.  Though the skillet is preseasoned, a little extra bacon flavor never hurt anyone.  I skipped the olive oil and reduced the amount of bacon for this recipe as I found that four slices of bacon rendered enough fat to coat the potatoes and turnips.  The result?  A hearty breakfast entree or dinner side dish with turnips to give it that subtle bitter yet sweet extra dimension of flavor.

Root vegetable love: A prep bowl filled with turnips and potatoes.

Recipe yields 6 servings

1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1/2 tbsp sugar
4 slices of thick cut bacon (or 6 thin cut slices), cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium white onion, thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 lb turnips, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch chunks
1 lb Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch chunks
1 tsp dried parsley
salt and pepper

• Whisk together 1/4 cup water, vinegar, and sugar in a small bowl.
• Pre-heat skillet over medium high heat, you want the pan to be nice and hot when the bacon touches down.  If you’re using a newer cast iron skillet, spray with non-stick cooking spray for extra stick prevention.
• Add in bacon pieces and fry until fat is rendered, about 3-4 minutes.
• Add in onion and garlic, sautee until onion is soft and garlic is golden brown, about 5 minutes.
• Add in turnips and potatoes, sprinkle with 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp pepper (or to your taste) and toss for about 3-4 minutes so vegetables are well coated with oil and seasonings.
• Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until vegetables are almost completely fork tender, about 10 minutes.  If you’re using a cast iron skillet (or something else that’s not non-stick), make sure you stir and turn every 2-3 minutes so nothing gets stuck.
• Uncover, pour vinegar/water mix into skillet, and toss and cook for 4-5 minutes, or until water is mostly evaporated.  Add in parsley (and season with more salt and pepper to taste if needed), and fry and stir for another 3-4 minutes or until turnips and potatoes are crisp around the edges.

Nutrition Facts
Per serving
as calculated by Sparkpeople Recipe Calculator

Calories 120 | Fat 3g | Sodium 717 mg
Carbohydrate 22g | Dietary Fiber 3g | Sugars 6g | Protein 5g

Vitamin B-6 11% | Vitamin C 53%
Calcium 4% | Iron 5%